5. Paver Course.
First, unpack the pavers. Open several packs to ensure a good, even blend of colours and unpack each diagonally rather than horizontally – this will ensure that any minor variations in the colour or pattern of the pavers will be distributed evenly across the area. Any pavers damaged on site should not be used, but can be used for cuts if appropriate. Ensure that you unpack the pavers onto flat, even ground, and ensure that you wear appropriate safety-wear to prevent injury from falling pavers.
Decide on the pattern of pavers to be constructed. This may be a simple matter of aesthetics, but if the paved area is to be used by vehicles then an interlocking pattern will prove most stable. We can provide more suggestions on laying patterns on request. If working on a slope, begin at the bottom of the slope and work upwards – if the gradient is particularly steep you may need to use intermediate restraints, for example a row similar to edging cemented into place at set intervals.
Fit whole pavers first, and complete using the cuts. For herringbone patterns, start in the centre and work to the edges, cutting there as necessary. This will avoid the pattern going out of line. Where there are gaps (e.g. around a curve), you will need to cut down full pavers to fit. Any such in-fill pieces should be cut as accurately as possible, using a disc cutter and fitted flush with the whole pavers wherever necessary to complete the paving pattern or to fill the entire area. Ensure that safety goggles are worn and that correct safety precautions are taken. The joint width between pavers can be between 2mm and 5mm. Each paver or in-fill should be not more than 2mm higher or lower than adjacent paving bricks. Using a 3mm rule, ensure that overall there is not more than a 7mm deviation of the laid surface. Any more than this could result in the pooling of water every time it rains and will ultimately destabilize your paving.